Copper line

Searched and searched and have not found any answers on what I'm looking for. I currently run leadcore but want to get into copper. I'm confused on depth achieved. I know about 30# and 45# but am confused about how much wire to spool onto my reel. I am interested in having a few setup to run 40' all the way to maybe 125'?? My other question is when do you clip on the board? I know on my leadcore I clip it on about a foot after my leadcore and on a 10 color I'm confident that I'm running around 50'. Is it the same with these rigs, let out all the copper and then clip your board on a foot or so after it, or do you let out more backing before attaching the board?? Any info on some of your setups or depth charts for how much copper to get a certain depth would be appreciated. See you on the water!

So I just set up a okuma 55 with a 300 bloorun copper, problem is I don't have it on a rod with titanium eyes. What kind of rod do you guys run your copper on? Or what would you recommend?

I was using the albright at the time when the mono broke. I like that knot, and it seem to hold up with the will with the power pro. I was just a little scared to use it again after the mono broke with it. I am currently running the albright to the power pro backer and the leader, and then the same spro swivel to the 6 foot flouro leader. Thanks for the info everyone. Repete

I know this thread is on copper but has anyone tried the Suffix 832 lead core? Being that it's a much thinner diameter than standard lead core it's supposed to run in the 7'/color range which puts it in the range of copper without the issues copper has. Also being smaller you could go to a smaller reel instead of the monsters needed for copper. I have some of it coming and will be trying it out once I get back on the pond.

I typically use a Trilene knot. GB

Thanks Grey Beard for the knot tip I will try that one. What do you like to use to tie the mono to the new loop you just made in the copper? I am literally reading the blood run page right now thinking about giving it a try. I like the smaller diameter, which means more rooms for backing. Also alot of reviews around the web about how user friendly it is.

The goal with copper is to get deeper with less line out. Even tho 45# is more difficult to run I would argue not to bother with 30#. I got rid of mine except for a couple of spools in the basement. I don't like swivels banging thru guides. I put 1.5" 3/16" shrink tube on the copper then bend the copper back on itself about 1.5". Place a small nail in the loop and twist copper once around the nail forming an "eye". Finish wraping remaining copper as a haywire twist. Heat shrink leaving most of eye exposed. If needed using a needle nose elongate the copper eye. You can now tie on whatever leader material you choose using knot of choice. Converted to this knot last spring and no failures, easier to retie new leader and much smaller than Albright knot. I plan to try Blood Run next purchase as many report easier to work with than non coated. Grey Beard

"It aint't pretty but it works" I like it, as long as its small enough to go through the guides and holds tight I agree. Heres a great link for the albright as well with step by step instructions and pictures. http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php?Categ=fishing&LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg&Website=www.animatedknots.com

I don't use a swivel at all to connect the copper. I tie a uni-knot with the mono or braid and a simple over hand knot in the copper. Then I pull the uni-knot tight to the overhand knot in the copper. It 'aint pretty but it works.

Here is a picture of haywire twist, not a pretty one but you get the idea. Slip the line through the swivel then bring it back and wrap it around itself a couple times. Some guys like a little shrink tubing over it as you see it will fray up a bit overtime. I never retied that knot all of last season and had no failures. That is 45 lb Opti or Howie Copper cant remember.

My best copper rigs are 150' of 30# copper that runs about 25’ to 35’ deep at 1.8 to 2.2 MPH, (5’ to 7’ per 10 yards, speed dependant), with a 30’ leader of 20# fluorocarbon. I also like 180’ of 45# copper that runs 45’ to 65’ at 1.8 to 2.2 MPH, (7’ to 9’ per 10 yards, speed dependant), with a 30’ leader of 20# fluorocarbon. When attaching to a planer board I always let out all of the copper line and then attach to the 50# super braid backing and I vary the attachment points so I don’t weaken the super braid in one spot due to the board release. The knots I use are a Double Uni for securing the 25# mono reel spool starter, (25’ of mono that prevents slipping of super braid on smooth metal spool), to 150 yards of 50# super braid. Then I use the Albright knot for attaching the super braid to the copper line and for attaching the fluorocarbon to the copper line. See links to animated demonstrations of these knots below: http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/double-uni-knot http://www.animatedknots.com/albright/index.php My tips on running copper are to adjust the reel spool tension (tighten) to prevent backlashes and keep your thumb on the copper line when deploying until the copper line is all out. Don’t buy cheap copper line because it is stiff and will be prone to backlashes, buy a soft copper line like Blood Run Tackle sells. As the other guys have posted copper sinks quickly, so when you slow down or make an inside turn be aware that the copper line will be running deeper. Things to consider when running copper are if you slow down to net a fish or make a sharp change of direction I strongly recommend you bring the copper rig in and check the hooks for moss or debris. Salmon and Trout don’t eat salad! Copper works best when trolled on a straight course and at a consistent speed. Good Luck

I agree ditto. I would really recommend maxing out with a 200 on the okuma 45 and getting another 200 to 300 feet of backing on the reel. I got away with it last year, but someday it might not be enough and I will wonder all year how big the S.O.B. that stole my whole rig was. Also you do snag a fish everyonce in awhile and they don't fight like one hooked in the yapper.

I use Penn 340's for my 300' 45lb copper set ups. I run 65lb. braided backing and I forget how much I put on but I know it's a lot. Slosh is correct that they dont seem to pull much drag on the copper but every once in a while you get one that forgot to read that rule. Plus when you let out 50' from the copper to the release and then run the release 100' down the board line a little extra is a nice thing to have.

@Repete, I started last year with a 20 foot leader like I use on leadcore and was catching just fine. Later in the season I expanded this leader to 50 to 75 feet and it was still catching plenty of fish and probably more. I cant confirm that the leader length was better or worse either way, might have been more to do with the temps and amount of fish at the depths the copper was running. About fitting copper on a reel....I fit 250 feet of 45 lb copper with a 50 foot leader and 450 feet of 50 lb power pro on a okuma 45. I probably could have fit another 100 feet of power pro on but I bought a spool of 450 feet so that's what I put on exactly. I attach the copper to backing with a small spro swivel 50 lb. and its a number 8 I believe. Regular fisherman's knot for mono side and a haywire twist to a swivel on the copper side. Haywire twists is just like it sounds, pull the copper through the swivel and then just twist it back around itself 4 or 5 times. I put about 15 feet of mono between the copper and braid to attach the board. Replace the mono half way through the season or whenever you get some wear and tear on it. I would love to have more backing than 450 feet, but I don't do this for a living so huge 100 dollar reels don't grow on trees for me. Fish do not burn out drag with long coppers like they do on short lead cores or divers. A lot of time we will just see that the board is struggling a bit, or the rod is not bouncing in the waves anymore and then the drag will just slowly click a few times. I don't remember one fish taking more than 50 feet of copper drag last year before I was on the reel. More line and backing would be better for your drags and line retrieve but its worked fine more me so far. Spooling up copper can be a little tough as you need to keep some tension on the line or you will waste some space on the reel and it might want to jump or get memory in the line. This is real hi teck redneck but when I got pretty close to being full I tied the copper off in the yard to a fencepost and walked backwords with tension on the line letting all the copper out and onto the lawn. I then reeled up with a bunch of tension getting it on the reel a lot tighter than I could load it by hand. You could always just put a lb ball or similar weight on it in the boat, let it all out and then reel it back in. The extra space you made on the reel by tightening everything up should be enough to add your mono leader on the business end. Even better is if you have 2 of the same reel load up your leader first, then your copper and then just pile on all the back you can fit til its full. Now hook it up to your other reel and crank it all on under your leader it back on top of the reel. That method is dummy proof even for me.

I guess I do have one more question and that is do you guys use 30# at all or stick with the 45? Which holds up better? What's the best rod/reel combo for 150' 200' and 300' copper? Thanks again and great info! I owe you one. [This post was last edited on 3/11/13 at 9:42 PM> 300 copper needs a 55 okuma or equivalant sized reel(capacity). 30# copper is the same depth rate as lead core but at a steeper angle(Less line out). Most use 45#. Depending on you backing I'm thinking a 150 or 200 should fit on a 45 size reel.

RePete, I run about 50' of 30lb flourocarbon.