Which Broadhead and Why?

This is going to be a long post, so if you aren't interested in a broadhead discussion, I suggest backing out now...

Welder Guy brought this up on the "hub blind" thread and I'd like to have a reasonable discussion about broadheads.  I know this topic has been completely beat to death, but I'd like to think as time has moved on, we continue to learn and I think it is worth discussing again.  

I've been bowhunting since 2006.  I did a ton of research then (I research everything I do to no end = blessing and curse).  I settled on Montec G5 broadheads.  I wanted a sturdy cut-on-contact fixed blade.  What drew me to the G5 is that they make a "preseason" version of their heads, which is just a dull version of the broadhead for practice.  I practice almost exclusively with the preseasons.

My results have been stellar.  Believe it or not, I've never clean missed a deer (or the 1 fox I shot).  I've only lost one deer so far in my bowhunting career, a doe in 2012.  She went down in sight.  I waited 30 minutes.  When I got to her, she popped up and took off.  It was user error, I hit her far back.  Hours of tracking later that night and the next morning came up empty.

Aside from that one deer, I have seen all but one of the deer I've shot go down.  And the one I didn't see, I heard crash and walked right to him without any tracking.

Because of my results, I've became a massive believer in cut-on-contact, fixed blade broadheads.  I cannot see a reason why NOT to use them.  The biggest reason is simple:  the deer do not react like you just hit them in the side with a baseball bat, causing them to run like crazy!  Three of the last four deer I've shot jumped, then WALKED 20 - 25 yards away from the shot and tipped over.  All three were double lung shots.  The one that ran was a heart shot, and running proved futile. 

Over the years, I've read HUNDREDS of threads about expandables.  Deployment issues, flight issues because one blade prematurely opened, deflection on bone issues, etc., etc.  Also, when you hit a deer with an expandable, they know it, and they are going to run as far and as fast as they can.  Expandables in my mind have 1 benefit:  they do leave impressive blood trails.  The issue I have is you will typically need the blood trail, because that deer is going to make it as far as it can.  I reject the concept that expandables fly the same as field tips as being an advantage.  Out of a properly tuned bow, a good fixed blade will also fly the same as field tips.  At least that's what I've been told!  I don't practice with field tips!

So what do you use and why?

Thanks for the response icefitchin. I will look into those heads. I've heard of them but never tried them. Good luck this fall hunting. Ice fishing is around the corner maybe we'll have to catch up again and fish.

AO

AO

so many opinions on mechanical vs fixed broad heads. 

If you’re looking for another 3 blade mechanical, look at the Grim Reaper. I’ve used them for 5 years now. Found every deer I’ve hit. Even 2 doe I admit, made bad shots on. I’m really a big fan of these heads. 

Wondering opinions on 2 or 3 blade broadheads. I have always done 3 blade. But have noticed with alot of the mechanicals 3 blade is sometimes hard to find. Wondering if the 2 blades fly much different what is the differences in impact passthrough ect..for those that have shot both. I'm looking into new broadheads I now shoot rage 3 blade chisel but have had mixed results and looking to switch.

Spent money on a set of iron will wife's. Shot a dozen times into the foam target and could still shave hair with them. Broadhead tuned to a nice grouping and never took a shot at a deer this year ????‍??. Par for this year.

Great thread and nice to get others experiences.  I’ve shot many different heads over the years, fixed and mechanical.  Satellite 4 blades, thunderheads, Rocky, muzzy 3 blades, NAP drt, rage 2 blade, and rage hypodermics.  

I agree shot placement is key, but I don’t agree all broadheads perform effectively in what I consider a good, lethal shot.

I went through the mechanical (Rage) phase and am back to a fixed head (NAP).  I did have some mechanical entrance and exit wounds I could put a pop can in and deer dropped within sight.  However, I am targeting 4-7 yr old bucks weighing over 200#’s and have a mature skeletal structure.  Compare the scapula of a 5 yr old buck to that of a young deer and you will see they are different animals.  I can still blow through shoulders with a completely broadside animal but put even the slightest angle on the deer and that shoulder becomes armor.

Imagine shooting into a 1/2” piece of particle board head on and most would penetrate that board.  Change the angle to slightly quartering away and your broadhead is skipping off.

Same deal with mature deer.  I lost a really good buck on a slightly quartering away shot with a 2 blade mechanical.  Shot was good, saw immediate blood behind the shoulder and I was waiting for the buck to pile up.  Didnt happen.  Had him back on camera a week later.  Deer was then harvested during gun season.  Evidence showed 2 blade mechanical skidded along the ribs and lodged behind front shoulder.  I believe a fixed head would have punched through for a quick kill.

I do shoot some hypos yet during doe control later in the season if my buck tag is filled.  No issues at all in younger/female deer.  Slice through ribs on quartering away shots.  But I’m telling you a mature whitetail buck is a different animal and I’ll stick with a bone crushing fixed head with a smaller surface area.

Just ordered some Magnus Black Hornets. They should last a long time and have a lifetime warranty. 

interesting discussion...my thoughts 

2.3.4 or whatever many blades need to be sharp...and a cut on contact style.   Bottom line its the shot placement that counts...if well placed dont matter much what style...dead deer

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standard_lengthy,

The problem I have with those 'QUALITY, REUSABLE' broadheads you speak of is what the companies that manufacture/market them want for a 3 pack. I'm sorry, you can claim to make the 'world's most durable, reusable broadhead' with a lifetime warranty all you want, but you will lose me EVERY time when you try to sell them for $99.99 for a 3 pack. You can get a 3 or 4 pack of most broadheads for $39.99-44.99 retail, even less if on sale. That 3 pack of heads will last most hunters a couple seasons, possibly longer if you can replace the blades and make them new again for a few bucks per head. In my opinion, if you stick with a stainless steel ferrule, you'd have to hit a rock or something made of hard metal to bend the ferrule in most cases. Aluminum ferrule heads, especially mechanical heads, are disposable. Period. Not sure why they even sell replacement blades for RAGE heads. If you hit ANYTHING hard with a moDern 65-70# bow...rib, leg bone, log, etc. the ferrule is bent and they are toast. That is one reason I like Wac'Em heads. They fly well, have easily replaceable blades and have stainless steel ferrules, making them durable. A 4 pack is about $35. To me, as long as you stick with a stainless steel ferrule and replaceable blades, you're good to go. I just can't justify spending more than $100 on 3 heads...

All (save for one or two) the broadheads that have been discussed have one fatal flaw, once they have been shot, they are done. Most have the blade strength of a disposable razor and they all probably come from the same factory. trad heads like the zwickey or bear are about the only ones you can actually sharpen after each use and use the multiple times. granted if you hit a rock on the other side of the deer, you are usually hosed anyhow. My search this year will be for  (get this) a QUALITY MADE head you can actually sharpen and shoot more than once. rant over.

Used Rage 2 inch this year.  Shot a doe and a buck and was impressed by the entrance and exit hole.   Doe went about 60 yards and buck went about 40 yards.   I also shot wasp 3 blade expandable for the past several years with no problem but the rage were impressive.

I tried Rocky Mountain warhead SS 1.5" this past fall and was very impressed with the performance. I made the worst shot I've ever made on a deer (hit liver) and was still able to recover the deer (after backing out for 12 hours). I can't wait to see the performance on a GOOD shot! Otherwise I have had great success with the Rocky Mountain Snyper 2-blade and 3-blade (no longer made). They are basically a RAGE, but the 2-blade has a 1 3/16" cut and the 3-blade is 1 1/8" cut. I shoot a Bowtech Assassin 28.5" @ 72# and almost always have a pass through unless I hit offside shoulder/leg. 

For fixed heads, I use Wac 'Em 100 gr. 3-blade. Only 1 1/32" cut, but even shoulders don't stop them! Have never NOT gotten a pass-through using the Wac 'Em heads, but prefer the blood trails and shorter recoveries of the expandable heads. YMMV

I have used muzzy trocar's for have a decade,very good forgiving,tough head.Be fore that phantoms,standard muzzies,thunderheads,black diamonds,savora, bear.Even made my own on a cnc lathe three to one diameter to length.Those were the days fun times.

I’ve read back a few pages and agree with most of the stuff on here. I currently shoot Viper Tricks and Wac Em 4 blades interchangeably, and each one has done a fine job on deer. I prefer fixed heads due to better penetration. With my 26” draw, I won’t get close to the energy/momentum that someone with a 30” draw will have at a given poundage, so I am at a disadvantage out of the gate. 

I have seen some comments regarding choosing the fixed heads that fly well out of your bow. I highly recommend everyone purchase an arrow spinner like the one in the link below. It will show you whether or not a broadhead spins true. If there is any wobble at all, either due to the broadhead itself not being straight or your insert being out of square, that broadhead will likely not fly as well as a field point. If your setup is in tune and the broadhead spins true, it is going to fly well.  My spinner helped solve some headaches when trying to set up a new bow 3 years ago.

Arrow Spinner

G5 Striker because it is simple, flies great and does the job of blood letting well.

Crossbow and Hoyt compound. I use the different shear pins for the different arrow or bolt.