Does it really matter? I'm considering an 8 inch Pistol Bit for $159.
Let's hear it.
Thus far I am very happy with the Milwaukee 1200 inch/lb FUEL hammer drill and the Razr 7" auger, with 5AH Lithium batteries. I take a spare battery, but have yet to need it. Recognize that I have yet to drill through 24-30" of ice in 10F weather. If finances allow, I will look at getting a dedicated electric drill next season. The Strikemaster and Ion units that I have seen in action are just beasts.
Grab a beer and look up some specs.
Volt's have no direct correlation to torque, MKE has multiple different torque rated drills on the M18 platform. Most people that are unhappy with their auger set ups fail to recognize this and buy the "best deal" they can find even within brands.
Don't try an underpowered drill and don't try one that isn't brushless. When it starts to feel warm in your hand the damage is already done. It usually stinks like burning wires by then too.
That is an underpowered cordless drill for ice augering. The standard is over 700 in/lb or about 100 in/lb per inch hole diameter. I have heard of compact (underpowered) drills burning out and one friend had one actually start on fire! Maybe if you used Clam's Drill Plate Pro with Power Drive as it has a 3.6 - 1 gear ratio but really you should have a full size powerful drill. I run a DeWalt DCD 995 and 996 on a regular drill plate and usually have a 6" Lazer style flighting with power point, but sometimes use an 8" in the same configuration.
OK, so I ordered a Makita 18V that has 450 in-lbs. of torque. After reading all the posts I may have bought one on the weak side BUT I also read an article that rated it in the top 3 drills for using as an auger.
I'll be using an 8" Mora auger and primarily tip-up fish so I'd like to hear from anyone who either uses a Makita OR uses a drill with that torque rating. Worst case I return it without using it and get something else.
I wanted to stay with Makita since my son has all Makita tools so I have all the spare batteries.
Thanks.
Most recommend the hammer drill model because it has heavy duty gears compared to the non hammer version. You do not use the hammer function for drill ice but the heavy gears are a definite plus.
Also, make sure whatever your getting is brushless or you will build heat and burn it out.
750 in-lbs of torque is the bare minimum I have ever heard recommended. I have a m18 that is 750 and it doesn't not like anything bigger than a 5 inch Laser. Its fine for burning holes early ice but really struggles with thicker ice.
I used the 2704 M18 with the 6" Lite Flight until I upgraded to the 24 volt Strikemster drill.
I bought the lite flite on recommendations from a friend who has several brands. he also rec'd the Rigid cordless drill based on a lifetime warrantee on everything including the battery.
However,I have several cordless drills including a nearly brand new Dewalt 20v brush;less...but it only had two 2ah batteries....so I went to HD for a 5ah battery. I saw the online price,how much different could it be?
Holy cow! Online,$64 for a single 5ah battery.. In store? $188!
They honored the $64 price.
(edit) My Bauer brand "harbor freight" cordless drill did NOT cut it.
Thanks guys, I didn't think I needed it either but reading some articles they said you should. For now I'm using a Mora auger I've had laying around for a while. My son has all Makita 18V so that's what I'll get and since he has 4-5 batteries, I don't need them or the charger.
Thanks again.