Did some modifications, moved rear lead strip to front (the 2 are double stacked now), heated up front arm and made it angle up, replaced plastic rear pin with stainless so can spin braid on it now without cutting in. Anyone here also done this or other modifications? Results? I havnt water tested yet. These boards pull 300 copper and a 10 color FYI
You may have found this already, but here is a good article on board modifications:
Just a guess here but did your friend bend the tow arm up? I'm thinking with having the tow arm vertical and not horizontal it will ride better in the waves with having the weights more forward. The theory is the line from rod tip to tow arm will pull up on the clip, hence less nose diving in chop. A theory anyways, I will know more after this weekend when I finally test
I had a friend I fish with frequently change the weights like you are talking about and all of a sudden that board in a very small chop wanted to nose dive and go under water. This is mush bigger issue than the boards not pulling out wide enough in my opinion.
The steel pin is a good idea. I went with a Red offshore release on the back years ago in a pinch and never looked back.
Could they pull out just a little wider.....sure...let out a little more line if you need to.
Tx-44 pulls 300 copper with ease. You really dont need a board that big, most the time I just use my standard church boards.
All boards should be updated with new lock jaw grips
I replaced the plastic pins with stainless steel this year and was very happy with it. Have not made any other modifications. Will the change in weights help pull out to the side more? Mine pull with 300 copper ok but ideally Id like them to pull more to the side like it does when pulling 10 color. I had a nasty tangle from a fish running from a wire dipsy into 300 copper with TX-44. Let me know how it goes pulling copper.