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Big Planer Board help

1/15/19 @ 1:31 PM
ORIGINAL POST
fishrepellant
fishrepellant
USER since 3/25/10

I've been trolling the big lake for a few years now and slowing upgrading as I go.  I currently have a set of dual planer (1" x 6" x 24") boards now, but they can barely handle 2-3 lines with snap weights.  I'm looking to build some new, more agressive ones, but in the hours of research, can't seem to find "the best" option.  Some of the questions I have are:

- 2 vs 3 board?

- why does 2 board desigen have staggered back and 3 have even back?

 - 6", 8", 10" or 12" boards?  (does it matter if 2 or 3 planer design?)

- how much does the length determine the pull of the boards?

- why do 2 planer designs have adjustable spots for the eye bolt but the 3 planer designs don't?

- why do 2 board designs have rods in various locations, while 3 board design has rods located down the center of each board?

- why wouldn't everyone want to use the hardest pulling board?

- anyone have plans that I can use to make my new boards?

Thanks for any help.

~ Fishrepellant

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Displaying 1 to 6 of 6 Posts
2/8/19 @ 9:29 AM
Grey Beard
Grey Beard
USER since 1/27/02

I'm playing snowbird in FL so have not checked this thread for awhile.

Many years ago I gave up on the big planer with mast system for a number of reasons: crawling out on the deck to hook up the boards, board storage and boards tipping over in heavy seas and then they zoom over to the opposite side for a massive tangle, lots of releases and the mess of rubber bands left on the reel. Another mast issue is rotating various lengths of lead core after a strike. Running a 2 color inside of longer lead cores can lead to tangles. Enough come with lead core so best to keep it manageable. 

I find in-line planers a much simpler system to run. The relatively new Off Shore OR-37 SST pro mag addressed the nead for modification by coming with the adjustable OR-18 release on the front and OR-16 red release with the pin in the pad on the rear. They track very well and I use them on lead core >7 color and all my coppers up to 300'. My crew threatened mutiny if I added any  coppers over 300'. Honestly hardly ever run 10 colors of lead anymore letting the 150' copper on a OR-37 cover that zone.

Grey Beard

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1/20/19 @ 7:43 PM
luckylou
luckylou
USER since 8/25/11

I use the church walleye boards for all leadcore. 

i go the thx 44s for 225copper or bigger. 

so many options, tackle, and modifications out there. My personal favorite is the church boards out of the box. I can’t believe how much some guys spend on boards + lockjaw clips + custom backend OR19 clips + putting in new screws, etc. 

keep it simple in my opinion. Haven’t had any issues with tangles. I often keep all coppers on one side of the boat and lead on the other. If I’m running a 225, 300, 450 copper they are all on the same side of boat and all on TX44s

i try (if possible with crew and water column conditions) to keep big boards on their own side because they can plane to side more

regardless of the board used....my tip is to run braid from the rod tip to the board (less wind drag, really helps keep boards planing)

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1/16/19 @ 12:49 PM
fishrepellant
fishrepellant
USER since 3/25/10

The little boards are a lot more convenient for a lot of reasons, until you get a mid to big fish on, then I totally disagree.  I actually prefer to run both the big and small boards at the same time.  I feel like I can cover a lot of options that way and then once something works, start turning over to that technique that day.  Just my style I guess.  Thanks for your inputs.  I'm looking to learn all the time!

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1/15/19 @ 5:38 PM
BugleTrout
BugleTrout
USER since 9/27/01

Take a look at Church Tackle TX-44’s before you build anything new.

Edit: I got mine on EBay for about half of the price of new.

Edited on 1/15/19 5:43 PM
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1/15/19 @ 2:41 PM
Fish Hound
Fish Hound
USER since 1/29/02

Other then a few big boats pulling VERY large boards I don't think many even use them anymore. So much more convenient with in-lines.

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