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1/18/16 @ 10:49 AM
Dave (Golden)
Dave (Golden)
MEMBER since 6/22/01
Anyone ever change the Blatter (Air Cell) on a Pressure Tank on a well water supply.. (Well Mate pressure tank)

I determined yesterday that the Blatter failed since my well pump was short cycling. Appears that the cell can be changed, but the kit is proving not to be the easiest to get my hands on.

Just looking for advise if I should try it myself or leave it to a Plumber..

I have it band-aided for the moment. I was able to drain the tank and then allow for the tank to partially fill and work properly, I assume it will work until the water adsorbs the air in the cell.


4/15/19 @ 12:12 PM
User since 1/6/09

Drains will run into a lift station under the sink, the drain pipe will follow the water lines back to the utility room, and my Plumber will figure out the rest?

4/12/19 @ 3:24 PM
stool bus
User since 4/30/14
3/4 pex is fine.  how about connecting and venting the drain?

4/12/19 @ 11:44 AM
User since 1/6/09

Thanks for all input.  Luckily, I know a place where I can get 3/4" cheap.

I did some searching on codes but didn't find anything relevant to how many fixtures you can run off of a supply.  Since I will have a plumber connect the line to the supply I'll leave that for him to work out.

4/11/19 @ 5:48 PM
User since 5/31/10

Another consideration is the amount of fixtures being ran off the line. Not sure what code is in your area but it's something to think about.

4/11/19 @ 4:51 PM
User since 12/19/06


That is a commercial dishwashing sink.  Had one just like it in several restaurants I've worked.  I would use at least 3/4" piping for supply lines.  A sink like that used in a restaurant would likely have 1" supply lines, but that's in a commercial kitchen with LOTS of usage.  

3/4" is my opinion...and we know opinions are like a-holes, we all have them...

4/11/19 @ 9:56 AM
User since 1/6/09

The sink is very similar to the picture posted.

We have a well.  Moved into the home 2 years ago, beyond that you're starting to speak Greek to me.

Looking at the existing water pipes, there is a combination of copper and pex running to various rooms.  Our house has 3 full bathrooms (2 up, 1 down), a 110 gallon water heater, in-floor basement heating system (that was disconnected when we moved in and we haven't done anything with).

4/10/19 @ 8:54 PM
User since 10/3/12

Swede, did you try you tube for info more specific to your situation? Or try a plumbing store? Those guys can be very helpful and have the correct parts to your situation.

4/10/19 @ 7:47 PM
User since 12/19/06

It just occurred to me, and I feel stupid for not bringing it up before, but what kind of sink?  The flow rate you desire is the critical factor in choosing the pipe size.

A washroom-type sink (strictly for washing your hands) normally has a faucet that needs only 1.7gpm or less.  If you are installing a laundry tub type sink, they can flow up to 15gpm.  In my home, the basement tub faucet is the highest flowing faucet or fixture in my entire home.

1/2" supply line is fine for a washroom type sink/faucet, whereas 3/4" would be better for a laundry tub sink/faucet.

Plans for these lines to carry more water in the future (adding a toilet and/or a shower stall)?  If yes, then bigger is better.

And are you on a well or municipal water?  If on a well, what pressures are you running and what type of pump controller do you have?  Not sure how far into the weeds you want to get...

4/10/19 @ 10:22 AM
User since 12/28/18

Pimple You are good to get the pro if this only job you have. The crimp tools and other fittings are not cheap. I would go with 1/2 inch, so you do not waste hot water. The plumber will have right fittings along, so do not have to make trips to get and return to Menard's or your local hardware.

4/10/19 @ 8:47 AM
User since 1/6/09

I will get a pro to help me tap into a water line in the utility room (my wife commonly says I need to seek professional help), but I plan on running the pex from there to the sink (hot and cold lines) myself.

Was thinking of using the SS crimp clamps - I'm envisioning a couple of 90-degree fittings, and a couple of Ts at the sink (it's a 2-faucet stainless restaurant-style sink).

I could probably eliminate the 90s coming down out of the drop ceiling, but I will be running the lines down inside a wooden cabinet to hide them and making a 90 just below faucet level to make the run to the faucets, and I don't think there's enough room to bend the pex there without kinking.  If the pex is pretty stiff, and I can get a good seal on the fittings, I'd rather not have the stress coming through the ceiling.

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