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Ask an Electrician

1/5/13 @ 5:49 PM
ORIGINAL POST
Plmlk
Brent Hess
MEMBER since 12/18/07
Ice-

Switches don't typically have neutrals, as if you switched a hot to a neutral you would create a dead short. Extremely unlikely your switch has a neutral.

If you notice the center terminals on your switch are connected together. My guess is that this is power to the switch, as well as a binding terminal. Meaning power comes into the switch, and then goes somewhere else. Are these the brown and blue wires????

The single terminals (white and black I'm guessing) are switched power, one going to the fan, and one going to the light. You'll have to check the schematic on your range, but I would bet you lunch that the black and white are for the fan and oven light. Which one I'm not certain. You should be able to jump the brown wire to the black wire and see what comes on the fan or the light. Then you have your answer. Make sense? Let me know if it doesn't.

It would help if you told me what wires are on which posts.

The Woodlands Resort
(262) 661-3968
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6/6/20 @ 6:38 PM
Phat Walleyes
Phat Walleyes
User since 3/31/15

Thanks Z (a very respectable trade)

I was trying to show how people compare Hwy death rates to make lite of dangerous situation like Covid19/electrocution as relative...

Also pointing out a fact/safety issue where many people flip the breaker thinking power is off, instead of making sure the circuit is indeed not live still... 

I seen some hairy electrical brainery myself that boggles the mind and makes no sense at all... And gives credence to never assume and/or take things at face value...

In fact I did NOT want to suggest people replacing old bulbs with the switch on as to not overtighten the new one... As the bulb comes on there's no need to crank more than maybe a just few degrees more after that... 

6/6/20 @ 4:51 PM
ifishwi
ifishwi
User since 1/12/05

Everyone please listen to Zmaniac. He's the resident LL electrical expert and he'll school you like nobody else can. Always hire a pro if you don't want to risk death. And the best thing is his sound advice is absolutely free here. well, he schooled me last week...

hey, just havin some fun with y'all on this beautiful Saturday afternoon. But seriously, hire a pro, but they don't come cheap.

6/6/20 @ 1:17 PM
Zmaniac
Zmaniac
User since 2/8/06

Phat-I am an Electrician or was for 40 years. I ran  commercial/industrial jobs in and around Chicago for 36 years.  I would never suggest doing something that isn’t safe. Some electrical testing has to be done with the circuit energized. Continuity on a dead wires can give you false readings because you don’t know if the conductor might be spliced somewhere you don’t know about. 

Electricity can and will kill you if caution is not taken. Common 110v kills more people than any other voltage due to the fact it’s the most common voltage.

When I hear people say that anyone can do electrical work I shake my head. There’s a big difference between doing something and doing something that’s correct and safe. That’s why there are electrical codes. These codes were written for safety reasons and when not followed can cause injury and or death. In my 40 years I have seen people die because of carelessness.

 Leave it to the pros

6/6/20 @ 11:58 AM
Phat Walleyes
Phat Walleyes
User since 3/31/15

I never said voltage CANT kill you... 

And I said very low amps CAN kill...

According to Ohms Law resistance, or lack there of, can get you killed...

I also said have an electrician help and make sure the circuit breaker is off AND AFTER no wires are still live...

(but more people get killed each year in car accidents)

It all relative... 

6/6/20 @ 8:40 AM
Dave (Golden)
Dave (Golden)
MEMBER since 6/22/01


6/6/20 @ 8:25 AM
Phat Walleyes
Phat Walleyes
User since 3/31/15

IMO ask a real electrician for help and always trip the breaker AND THEN AFTER check wires for power...

(half an amp can kill you) **


6/6/20 @ 7:35 AM
Bud Wise 2
Bud Wise 2
User since 9/5/13

thanks 1938 home everything runs off of the light. yes switch leg.  What I was trying to  Say is a neutral Can be just as dangerous!!! 

6/5/20 @ 2:10 PM
daleracefan
User since 3/27/02

Thanks Dave

6/5/20 @ 1:09 PM
Dave (Golden)
Dave (Golden)
MEMBER since 6/22/01

Try the easy thing first. It is very possible the (hot) tab in the socket has gotten compressed and squished from cranking the bulb in too tight and it is not making good contact with the numb on the bulb socket (until it arch's on). Turn the switch off, remove the bulb, pry the tab back out in the socket. put the bulb back in (not too tight) and see if that makes a difference. If not I would move to the switch that controls the light as the next failure point to check. Can't tell you how many times people suffer malfunctions because they screwed the bulb in with Popeye forearms...

 

6/5/20 @ 1:01 PM
daleracefan
User since 3/27/02

Little help here as weird as this sounds. My lite in the hallway takes 10 -15 seconds to come on once I flick the switch on , I have a switch on each end and it’s the same with both. It’s a standard bulb

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