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How to kill power to trolling motor ?

3/15/15 @ 8:49 PM
ORIGNAL POST
Opie Taylor
User since 9/17/14
I sometimes use a trolling motor on my kayak, and I'd like to be able to kill the power, in case I fell out while it's running. The simpler, the better.

I thought about using alligator clips(like the Minn Kota motors used to come with), drilling a hole in the clip, and adding a rope or tether. The other end would attach to my vest somehow. If I fell out, the clip would be pulled off of the battery post, killing the motor. Would this work? Am I missing anything?

Thanks.

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3/20/15 @ 4:54 PM
Opie Taylor
User since 9/17/14
Thank you.

3/20/15 @ 4:02 PM
mendota
MEMBER since 12/19/01
I attached the Anderson's to the battery with about 12" of #6 wire, terminated with #6 crimp rings for the 5/16 stud/bolt on the battery.

You can solder the connections if you don't have a crimping tool.

I was not worried particularly about falling out of the boat while underway, speeds were not really high enough to cause an issue, and if running shallow, just trim the motor up to just sub-surface.

But if I was capsized by a wake, which was far more likely, I did not want the battery to hinder my recovery. The weight of the battery would have easily popped the Anderson's apart.

Alligator clips might have broken away, or maybe not, if they were enclosed in a battery case. And they are not really a very reliable or efficient connection.

3/18/15 @ 3:54 PM
Opie Taylor
User since 9/17/14
Thanks. The wiring has already been extended with 6 gauge wire, and the battery is in the front of kayak. Would those work with 6 gauge wire? How do you hook those connectors up to the battery? Do you have a pic of your setup? You're saying attach a tether or rope to these connectors somehow?

3/17/15 @ 11:51 AM
mendota
MEMBER since 12/19/01
Well, back when I used a TM on my canoe, my main concern was that if I was capsized, I didn't want the weight of the battery to compromise the flotation in the canoe, I wanted it to break away.

I also wanted my battery in the front of the canoe, to offset my solo weight in the rear.

So, I made an extension cable (with 4-conductor 12Ga. SO cable) with Anderson connectors, and attached Anderson's to both the TM and Battery terminals.

So, I could set the battery case in the front, mount the TM in the rear, and snap the Andersons in, and I was ready to go.

Don't forget your kayak needs registration stickers if you motorize it.

http://www.waytekwire.com/item/37752/?gclid=CjwKEAjwoZ-oBRCAjZqs96qCmzgSJADnWCv8qE0Vkbh5F7ubZW__ZbOtkJYBrIgc5VuXp8hleqMsnhoC4Bvw_wcB

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