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80 lbTerrova plugs

12/30/14 @ 1:43 PM
ORIGNAL POST
B Fish
User since 6/26/10
Per the Minn Kota web page an 80 lb Terrova trolling motor draws 56 amps. I have tried Marinco plugs but they are only rated for 40 amps and I have had some issues. I see a T-H Marine in Cabela's is rated for 50 amps but that is still under rated. So my question is what plug have any of you used successfully to plug in your Terrova up at the bow.

Thanks and Happy New Year

DISPLAYING 1 TO 9 OF 9 POSTS
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2/9/15 @ 12:33 PM
fishen_soon
MEMBER since 6/24/14
I tell you what, my last motor got stolen up near Hayward, had a quick detach bracket and a plug in. I now have gone to direct wire and bolted with a security system on all my hatch covers. About half the mornings I or a buddy forgets and opens a door prior to disarming, scares the dickens out of you.

1/6/15 @ 7:57 AM
Ulbian
User since 9/24/03
"I would like to point out that the Terrova comes with #8 leads, so Minnkota is comfortable running that rated current on those wires."

This is true but if you have a 15 foot run of 6ga wire those leads coming from the motor will account for a higher percentage of voltage drop/loss per foot than the 6ga wire will. As a general rule, the longer run of wire required, the heavier the gauge you should use. If your batteries were positions right at the bow then the voltage loss you'd experience with 8ga would be negligible. Knock yourself out...however, boats with a TM battery compartment tucked right in the bow are non-existent. You have to measure the entire run of wire (from the battery to the front plus from the front back to the battery). On my 17 foot boat my batteries are mid hull. My total wiring run is about 18 feet without the trolling motor leads figured in. If the batteries are in the rear of the boat that run length is greater. The bigger wire gives you 1) less resistance, 2) better performance 3) longer battery life. You could run 8ga and never have any problems. That's your choice. My choice is to have a system where I have confidence that the motor is getting fed the juice it needs and will not be damaged because of short cuts taken.

1/1/15 @ 6:40 PM
mendota
MEMBER since 12/19/01
Minn kota used to recommend removing the TM for winter storage, as the motor magnets glue could let loose. Not sure if they still do for the Terrova.

My '07 boat came with the 80# Terrova, rigged with the older-style 8-gauge connectors:

http://www.basspro.com/Bass-Pro-Shops-Trolling-Motor-Plugs-or-Receptacles/product/10205429/

No issues with the plug or connection, has been trouble free. Other than an emergency situation, I can't imagine running at full power for any length of time. My boat (91" beam) does about 3.5mph on "10". cds' example is about the only scenario where the motor might conceivably pull near full power for an extended period.

I would like to point out that the Terrova comes with #8 leads, so Minnkota is comfortable running that rated current on those wires.

Also, at 54A draw, your 110AH marine batteries are going to last maybe an hour and a half, so not a lot of time to really cook things.

I've popped the 60A breaker just once, trying to run through heavy weeds. If I were rigging today, I would run these, just because I like simplicity:

http://www.basspro.com/Trolling-Motor-Connector-Kit-8Gauge/product/12051808141522/

1/1/15 @ 4:45 PM
centralwiwalleyeslayer2
User since 2/15/10
i wired mine direct to the battery

1/1/15 @ 5:34 AM
B Fish
User since 6/26/10
Thanks for the replies guys.

My original post was if there was a plug rated for 60 amps or more. It appears Marinco does make one that is rated for 63 amps however it is very expensive and not very user friendly from a mounting standpoint.

So it looks like the better option is to hard wire it up in series. Which is what I did on my last boat.

So my plan is to connect the TM and battery cables together with ring terminals and a 1/4 -20 bolt and tape them up. I hope to never have to remove the TM but this would give me a way to disconnect them. I will put a 60 amp breaker as close to the battery as I can on the positive side. I will also put a shutoff switch (made by Blue seas systems rated for 300 continuous amps) between the positive and negative jumper at the battery. I am going to mount the switch under my console. This way I can kill the entire system easily. If you guys are not disconnecting your power to your TM when you charge you should be. Chargers can emit a stray type voltage and fry the curcuit boards in a TM. It is kind of like a lightning strike, it may never happen but can. With me mounting the shutoff switch under my console I have extended the length of my curcuit so I am going to rewire to 4 ga. 6 ga is good for 50 amps to 15' and I think I may be past that point so I am up grading to 4. I have a wire size/amp rating chart if anyone wants me to E-mail it to them.

I will also solder all the connections, put liquid tape on them, and then tape them up.

I know this will work and solve some of the problems I had because this is how I wired my last boat. I was just hoping the factory wiring/plugs would work but after the probelems I had last year and the feedback I have gotten it is obvious I need to redo it.

Thanks

12/31/14 @ 5:24 PM
Ulbian
User since 9/24/03
Avoid jumping at the plug. Do this direct at the battery like others have pointed out. Unless you have the stuff to make your own jumper it is probably cheaper just to get a short battery cable for a lawnmower and use that as your jumper. I've seen guys rewire heir systems with 4ga wire to the motor but then they only have a 10ga jumper wire. Dumb, dumb, dumb. On an 80lb Terrova running 24v you can get by with 8ga if you had to but ideally you want 6ga as a minimum. Most boat manufacturers were putting 10ga in to begin with until recently when they started beefing this up. It depends on how old the boat is and what kind of boat it is.

I initially hard wired mine in but then put a a Ranger type plug on mine simply because a few guys I know have that set up already and we have a "community" spare Powerdrive. They are on the quick release brackets so if someone's goes down we can just pop the spare on, plug it in, and away we go. One plug on the market that is really nifty is made by Battery Tender and it accepts up to 6ga wire, maybe 4ga. It has a screw on it that locks it into place so you'll never have to worry about it coming loose. I would have gone that route if the community spare motor situation didn't exist. It just made sense to make half a dozen boats compatible because a crapped out motor can ruin a day fast.

12/30/14 @ 6:44 PM
Trophy_Taker
User since 4/27/08
I hard wired mine and didnt use a plug.

12/30/14 @ 4:37 PM
muskymstr62
User since 3/10/02
I had the same problem with mine. (24 volt) My boat was wired from the factory with a orange, red, black and black & blue wire. I only use the red and black wires with a short jump wire. I kept burning plugs in the spring on river systems. I told a dealer and he said to run the batteries in series and that will take care of my problem. Here is a diagram I hope it helps. You may have to make a wire that goes from one battery to the other. If you have yours set up like this already then I have no clue.

DISPLAYING 1 TO 9 OF 9 POSTS
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