MENU
Lake-Link Home
LOGIN
Lake-Link
LOG IN

Redoing Bunk Board - Carpet

8/20/19 @ 3:59 PM
ORIGNAL POST
Moose55
User since 5/30/04

Hello Everyone,

I have a 2016 Alumacraft Navigator 165 (aluminum boat) and my trailer bunks need to be replaced.  The boat is red, trailer is red, and the bunks are red as well.  I would like to redo the bunks and stick to the red colored carpet.  I plan on using non-presure treated 2x4 for the bunks with stainless steel staples and bolts.  

My issue is locating red carpet for the bunks.  I really don't want to use grey or black and keep with the original red color.  Are there any recommendations for bunk carpeting that is red?  I keep seeing bunk specific carpet but none of it is sold in the color I require.  What do/have people used for bunk carpeting?

Thank you,

Rob Smith

DISPLAYING 1 TO 10 OF 20 POSTS
FILTER OPTIONS
9/10/19 @ 8:46 PM
12packabs
12packabs
User since 12/19/06

Moose

You really can't power load with U-boards....your boat will slide back down off the bunks after driving on (at idle power...they are that slippery when wet).  They are almost like rollers when wet (but not quite...).

When recess-mounting, you don't thread into the boards...you run a bolt through the bunk and connect with a nut and washer on the bottom.  Cut a 1/4"-deep hole (large enough diameter to accept the bolt head with a socket..likely 3/4" to 1" diameter) on top for the bolt's head to recess...and not scratch the hull.  much better than cutting threads into the board like I did with my old set-up.  Can't strip it with a recessed bolt-through...  That's what I would have done had I used my head when installing them 15 years ago....

9/9/19 @ 1:42 PM
Murdockjr01
User since 5/11/18

Moose, I have the ultimate bunks with a 17ft aluminum boat and I never power load you can almost pull the boat up by hand. In and out under a minute.


9/9/19 @ 11:30 AM
Moose55
User since 5/30/04

I do have a concern about the mounting hardware.  If the bolts strip easy, when I power load the boat will the force of the boat cause the bolts to pull away on the ultimate board?  I will also have to check my rivets to see if there is anyway that I would get a rivet on the bolt head.  Since my rivets could go below the recessed nuts.

Rob 

9/6/19 @ 7:00 PM
BigMusky12
BigMusky12
User since 12/22/04

Recessed, but bolted thru so I did not worry about stripping 

9/6/19 @ 8:58 AM
cheeseshredder
User since 6/1/19

I used the recessed bolt method for my Ultimate Bunk Boards. It was very easy. With all stainless steel hardware.

9/5/19 @ 5:06 PM
12packabs
12packabs
User since 12/19/06

My trailer mounts were different on each bunk, but neither interfered with the board.

The first cupped the bunk half-way up the thickness of the bunk, leaving about 3/4" clearance to the hull.  The other side had bottom-mounted plates (flush to bottom of bunk).  Boat sat about 1/4" cock-eyed, but with carpeted bunks I never noticed it.

I never saw that when I bought the trailer with my boat, used (first boat, had no idea what to look for).

The only valuable tip I can offer is to be VERY careful tightening your screws into the boards...the ultimate bunk brand composite strips VERY easily (mounting screws).  Do not over tighten the screws.  I stripped 2 of them and had to reposition the bunk twice.  The composite material is very soft.  Very easy to do by hand, let alone with a driver tool.

9/5/19 @ 4:18 PM
Moose55
User since 5/30/04

For those of you that have the Ultimate Bunk Boards.  Did you mount your boards with the recessed hardware?  That is where the head of the bolt is sunken into the board.  Or did you elect to put your bolts into the bottom of the board?  

Thanks again,

Rob

9/5/19 @ 4:13 PM
Moose55
User since 5/30/04

The question came up about why I need to replace my bunks.  The trailer is a 2006 so it is about 13 years old.  I am the 2nd owner of the boat/motor/trailer.  This Spring when I was coming home from Delavan.  I drove about 10 miles down a road that was being resurfaced.  The road was ground down and there were numerous holes.  When I came home I noticed a guide bunk (bunk located on the side) had the bolts come out.  I went into my garage and took out a new stainless steel lag bolt.  I tried to bolt the side bunk back into position and the bolt never grabbed the wood.  The wood was completely rotten.  I was 2 days away from leaving for Canada.  So I took the carpet off, cut off a 2x4, then put the carpet over the 2x4 and attached to the trailer.  Then when I was in Canada I had to do the same repair to a bottom bunk.  

After all of these issues I want the piece of mind to replace all of the bunks.  When you replace the bunk boards you can not use pressure treated wood.  This is because the pressure treated chemicals, overtime damages the aluminum on the boat.

Rob

8/27/19 @ 12:45 PM
Tim Zwieg
User since 1/10/12
As all have said, go with Ultimate Bunk Boards

8/25/19 @ 8:40 PM
12packabs
12packabs
User since 12/19/06

Being an Alumacraft, we know his hull is riveted aluminum...the rivets can and do catch the carpeting through normal use.  Repeated catching can cause the carpet to tear.

A poorly adjusted bunk will exacerbate the problem (if a bunk is adjusted so that it rubs against a rivet line with each launch/recovery).  Scuffs in the hull that are sharp can also tear up the carpet quickly.  Hard to work on that stuff if you can't sand down a scuff cause it's under a bunk board...

I also had Ultimate Boards on my last trailer and loved them.  Bought a new welded trailer a few years ago...it came with carpeted bunks.  When they wear out, I will get the composites again.

DISPLAYING 1 TO 10 OF 20 POSTS
Advertise here
Advertise here
Please take a moment to visit our sponsors. Without them we would not be here.