I have a boat harness with 6 wires to terminal I need to replace as in picture. I thought I could find a terminal with six wires and just strip/connect wires instead of full wire harness replacement. All I can find is a 4 wire terminal like the connection is to my truck. Can I strip per color code to the 4 wire one? I am assuming not, but checking for thoughts before I do full harness replacement kit.
Boats & Motors
Boat wire harness
Displaying 1 to 12 of 12 posts
I had just put a new bulb in. They are 1157. The left one was blown so I had changed them both. When I just went to check lights, this is what was happening. I had another bulb so decided to again switch the right one to make sure I didn’t get a bad bulb. Works now. Was a bad new bulb.
I've had my running lights go out my Shorelandr trailer in the past. The trailer "running" lights fuse was blown in the truck.
The problem was exactly what Herb 2 mentioned, the wires rubbing inside the trailer frame wore through the insulation and then shorted out.
Rather than pull all new wire through the trailer, I unplugged each of the lights on my trailer and tied/taped strong string to the wiring plugs (Shorelandr has a nice male/female plug at each light which I did not want to lose). I then pulled out all of the wiring from the trailer front and repaired the wiring (i.e.; taped up the worn spots). I then pulled all the wiring back into the trailer frame with the string attached to each wire bundle. Problem solved.
Not sure what kind of lights you're running, but if they're the old bulb kind and you have brake/turn but not running, it could very well be the bulb. Had that issue a couple years ago and spent hours cleaning contacts and redoing the ground connections and checking fuses in the Explorer. Nothing was working to fix the issue. On a whim I tried a spare bulb I had and that was it. Really wish I'd started with that, but at least the grounds were good to go after lol
Crawdad
Did you test plug for power. Sometimes fuse goes on tail lights. The wire inside trailer frame rubs and becomes shorted out. the outside wire is usually the brown or tail lamp. This takes out the fuse.
If this is problem you need to buy 50' extension cord and splice into harness in frame. The insulation on this wire is thicker and cheaper than regular wire they now sell. save both ends of original harness and match black white green on each side of trailer to the old colors, solder connecting splices and will last life of trailer. You need to then add to 4 wire hitch wire. a test bulb can help you match the turn signal/brake correctly. 25' of wire is enough, so the 50 foot wire is about as cheap as you can get. 16 gauge works. Getting pulled into frame can be interesting.
Check your ground, and if that’s not it, check your ground again…
It’s almost always the ground lol
Brent is correct. That is a 4-pin tailer connector (probably the most common configuration for small boats there is). Any hardware store, auto parts store or trailer supply store will have them. I have the same setup, but added backup lights on my boat trailer, so I had to go to a 5-pin flat to run the backup lights. A replacement 4-pin pigtail should run $5-8 and can be installed in a few minutes by either soldering and sealing them or using heat-shrink butt connectors.
You have a 4-pin connector.
The white is the ground, brown is running lights, yellow is left turn signal, and green is right turn signal.
You should be able to splice it. You’re not running trailer brakes correct?
Displaying 1 to 12 of 12 posts
