I have a 18.5' Alumacraft Navigator tiller boat and I'm concerned I may have a leak(s) in the hull since the pump blew out water for about 5 minutes when done fishing. Curious how I can get the bottom checked with such a big boat and no "lift" to pick it up? Limited to repair shop? I'm not even sure there are leaks with all the rain last week but I've fished in heavy rain before without this much water being pumped out. Any suggestions in the Madison area if I need to have it checked? Thanks !!
Boats & Motors
Alumacraft Hull Leaking?
Displaying 1 to 15 of 44 posts
To Fishlovme,
The Alumacraft site states, aircraft grade aluminum rivets,but aluminum does corrode eventually. Below is a link on aluminum and corrosion
https://fractory.com/aluminium-corrosion/
Your prop info could be found at Solas propellor.That site has a prop finder web tool. I used it to select and shop for a new ss prop. Not promoting them but after looking all over the web they made it simple.Going from an aluminum prop to a stainless it is recommended to drop down 1 size.
So,in my case 17 pitch alum went to 15 stainless. I had a 3blade went to a 4blade.Top end dropped a little but handles nicer.Depends on what performance you want. For a Yamaha that had an alum prop you will need a washer adapter if not going with a Yamaha OEM prop.
As far as leaking goes or rivet issues. None to mention,I have the Edge175 2016,which has only one livewell that I rarely use except as a cooler.
imagine an engineer is involved in the fiasco....too bad, always thought Alumicraft would be my 3rd choice of boat after Lund and Lowe...if they used steel rivets with an aluminum skin is a recipe for disaster, corrosion waiting to happen...but probably saves a dime making the boat......as always, just my opinion
I reported about my Alumacraft Navigator leaking/taking on water about four pages back. Two back to back season I had to send it back to the factory. I had paint bubbling and blisters on my hull too. Alumacraft blamed it on mouse piss. They refused to allow me to view this situation. They did fix costing me about $1000 to derig and then rerig the boat by the dealer. Following season continued to leak so back to the factory it went. This time they said it was a problem with the spray rail. Was told it was fixed but didn't trust Alumacraft so I bought a different boat.
I will never buy a Alumacraft boat nor would I recommend to anyone to buy one.
20-year is on the section that is 2XB HULL system
10 year limited on plywood
that's what I read
Popper14
USER SINCE 6/30/21
PROFILEBLOCK USER
Having a similar issue on my 2012 Navigator. In ND fishing and found my boat filled with water the next morning. Seems the hull is rusted, if that is possible. Paint is blistered and a couple of spots already are holes. Appears to be a couple of spots that have not yet broke through, but appears to have a uniform spacing which is odd.
Called and emailed the factory, they told me I I was on my own. That’s a shame as I am looking to buy a new boat after this season.
Update
Took the boat to the dealership, They are baffled. Seems like the corrosion is coming from the inside in multiple locations. They are pulling the floor boards to get a better look. Dealer called alumacraft, they said the 20 year warranty is not transferable to other owners. When I told them that I was the original owner, was told that corrosion is not covered either. I feel the warranty is really worthless. I have gone from being a alumacraft believer, to this is the last one I will ever own. My father has a Lund, and has had issues, but the mfg has stood behind the product. I know where I am going.
Bass I am not the original owner of the boat - I'm the second and I've owned it for six years now. I'm pretty sure the rivets are all the same size - pictures can be deceiving, but I'll take another look next time I look at the boat. There is a real small dent or two in the bottom of the boat. The original owner did a lot of fishing on the Rock River with it. The prop is dinged up pretty good. One of these days I'll buy a new prop for the boat. I know nothing about what pitch to buy for it though. It's been a good boat for me. I'm so glad I fixed the leak because it was a pain pumping water out with the bilge pump every hour!
Fishlovme
Are you the original owner of this boat
The rivets appears to have a washer attached to it that's quite odd
Also appears to be odd is the size of the rivets are smaller than the others
That was just that these would have been replaced at one time
They're also appears that there's been some damage in that area
Mine started leaking this year. I checked the livewell pump first. The rubber o ring for the seal between the inside and the outside of the boat was cracked pretty badly. I replaced the pump and sealed it with silicone but it still leaked - about 10 gallons an hour I would estimate. So the next day I filled the bilge up with water and watched a slow drip in one area. It was right at the seam towards the front of the boat. The rubbery like stuff that's in between the seem was worn out. I sealed it up with some JB Weld. I've had my boat in the water all week up north while on vacation and it's stayed dry all week. So definitely, as others have said check your livewell pump first, then fill the bilge with water and check for leaks. I was quite shocked I actually found the leak considering how slow it was coming out.
1. I had the same issue a few years ago, it turned out to be a boat plug that was tight but not tight enough to eliminate a slow leak? I kept two new spares, replaced mine often cause always in and out, I'm on the water a lot.
2. Check all live well and bilge hoses for leaks.
3. Use food dye to locate the leak point.
4. Call the dealer you bought it from and see what they have to say!
Good Luck
Displaying 1 to 15 of 44 posts
