Lots Questions

Does anyone have their fish hawk transducer mounted right next to their side imaging transducer? I’m looking at adding a fish hawk, but I really don’t want to drill another hole in the transom. 

Are the dream weaver action dodger or baby spin doctors worth adding to a small boat setup? If so, what color do you like the best. 

I’m looking to add a few spoons this year? Do you have any hot spoons the last couple of years that are must haves?

What’s everyone using for down rigger releases  I just used cannon pinch pads last year with decent success.

Sorry for all of the questions. Thanks in advance!!!

I’d try your graph as is on your first trip   I use 10-12lb balls so I can usually see the ball on the graph.  If you can’t it maybe blowback or you could try tipping the ducer back a click.  As stated the ball will be a solid line the fish coming up look like vertical streaks atleast that I’ve seen.  I think it’s more important to see fish/bait/thermocline then to see my ball.  I put out what I think I need with blowback and such and go until I see fish then go back threw if I don’t get one adjust up down till I get bit

If your transducer is near the back of your boat and assuming the ball is rather straight down and not to far back, or on the complete other side of the boat, you should see it as a nearly solid line on the graph. If your not picking it up and think you should be your settings are probably off. Sensitivity, angle of 'ducer, etc....

Ok last question for a while. I have a helix 9 and I have not used it alot.... is there a way to see you down rigger ball on your locator? Is it a simple setting? Or adjusting the transducer on a different angle?

Snap weights on braid will get you down to depth too, we run them sometimes with heavy weights off boards to get deep rather then copper or lead depending what the fish want.

The lead portion of the set up does put a bit of a "rise and fall" action on the bait too though. If adding snap weights to the lead just add about 15' of depth to your chart for a three colors and about 25' for the five.

All weights are extremely speed/depth sensitive so when you're looking at your chart keep that in mind.

I have a set of snap weights that range from 1/2 oz -4oz.... just never really used them that much. I have a depth chart for snap weights. It would be sort of the same goal with snap weights on braid as it would leadcore?

If your not using leadcore or other type of weighted line you're really missing out!

If I was a smaller boat guy just starting out I would rig a 3 and a 5 color and have snap weights ready for when the bite slows down or the fish are deeper. It's an easy, somewhat inexpensive, way to start and will catch lots of fish with flexibility in depth.

I agree, superline backer is a must and use a Sam's Pro release on your planerboard.

Havent used the baby spinnies or small action flashers but i know they work just havent had to use them.

3 spoons. Mag moonshine bloody nose, mag moonshine 1/2 orange 1/2 white with black dots and mag happy meal moonshine.

Oh and blacks releases

Once July rolls around, the ten color is almost always in the water.  Typical solo July setup for me will be wire diver on starboard side 3 setting, downrigger out the back, and ten color on a board on port side in a 16' boat.  This would be for a temp break at 50' down.  If the temp break is higher up, I will run 5 or 8 depending on how high up.  I have also run wire divers 3 setting on port and starboard with 300' 45# copper out the back.  Bottom line for me is that a 10 color is a must.  There are days when it catches the fish with divers and riggers silent.   

I have a 18ft boat and have dabbled in the 7+ color lead core segments and I won’t do it again.  I have my best success as stated below with 3 color and have had some ok days on 5 color.  I get way more fish on flat lines and s-Biner setups in which I use 2 or-16 snaps on the dipsys.  This gets the dipsy as far away from the spoon f/f as you want (grey beards setup).  It’s a hassle running those long leads along with any distance on a 3 set dipsy the fish then come up when hooked in dipsy right into the lead rod atleast in my boat.  Put your money elsewhere and get acouple short leadcore setups.  Penn 309s are awesome for those and can be found cheap.  Also back the lead with braid instead of mono you can get a ton of the stuff on even a smaller reel.

take em 26. I sent you a PM, check your Messenger.

SS

I hate pulling in fish which I’ve already spotted a ton of line head start. I don’t mind if they rip off a bunch of line, but I have zero interest in dragging in fish with a mile of copper or lead core out. I’d rather catch a bunch of bluegills on a fly rod.

Short lead core segments, however, such as two or three color segments behind planer boards, are death on steelhead, and always in my limited small boat arsenal.

Is lead core or copper really worth the investment? I have 1 season under my belt and have put some fish in the boat with snap weights and braid line. I am interested in trying the leadcore setup. Just seems like you need a ton of loc to achieve a great depth. Any tips? Or should I keep using what I got to get more proficient at trolling?(I also have a ton of dipsey divers and boat is rigged with down riggers)

Ah yes, the hot spoon. I have lots of them and many have not seen the water for a number of years. I agree that Moonshine spoons have a terrific product as do a lot of other manufacturers. One approach to spoon collecting would be to have something available in your selection from the main food groups ie blacks, greens, yellows, orange, blues, white and extended glow. I typically buy 3 of one color so if one works I have others to put out. The baitfish population of younger alewife now predominates so I would stick with regular sized spoons. You could consider buying more of what has already worked for you.

I use more action dodgers vs Luhr Jensen but not sure if one is better, just own more. Friends have been using the small orange Spin Doctors with good success especially on their dipsy divers. For Coho I would just stick with anything orange so some of the time I use the small orange Bechhold flasher on my dipsys for variety.

For many years I’ve used Off Shore OR-8 heavy tension pad release. They are strong enough to handle flasher flies down deep and if you place the line shallower in the release fine for small spring Coho. It comes on a cable tether that helps us see shakers. In addition I add a clear snubber that sort of reproduces the rubber band action bounce before the fish releases. That gives me a little more time to get to the rod before the release. There are replacement pads should you be lucky enough to wear them out.

Grey Beard

I use blacks releases and skotty pinch pad style.  I like the blacks a lot seems I can dial them in really nice.  I like the Scotty’s because like stated below you can see shakers on it a little easier.  As far as spoons my tip producer is the medic from pro king I catch a lot of steelies and coho on it with occasional king and laker.  Use it on flat line and 3 color setups.  Deeper I like the agent orange rv spoon by moonshine for early morning mostly Kings with some steel.  The stinger nbk and the moonshine blue jeans are also good producers for me anywhere in the colum.  Moonshine spoons glow like no other.  Last year blues were good year before it was greens and whites the year before that.  If you got the 4 mentioned you won’t be disappointed.  Also mix some uv stuff in some days same color uv out produces mostly when it’s sunny.

I think you will be better off to mount a separate transducer mounting board to the opposite side of the transom as the side imaging probe, and I believe that's what the fish hawk folks recommend also.  I'm with you on not wanting to add more holes to your transom, but if you put a board on, those will be the last holes you ever drill.  And there is a board you can mount with epoxy only, I believe, but I don't know a lot about it.

You got good advise on the dodger and spoon questions below - I would add the Luhr Jensen small orange flasher (6") is a must have for the coho bite.  In terms of spoons, I like the Michigan Stinger uv green tux, HUD, both have been solid for me.

Good luck!