How many segments of leadcore/reel size
The Shimano Tekota’s are very nice reels, great quality great drags but one of the worst reels to use for leadcore or copper when considering the retrieve ratio of the reel. Leadcore and copper setups are commonly 200’ to 300’ or more behind a trolling board. Add another 100’ to 200’ or more from the boat to the trolling board. So expect to deploy a minimum of 300’ to 500’ or more every time you set out a leadcore or copper rig. The Tekota’s retrieve ratio is 4.2:1 and retrieve 25” on the 500 and 600 series and 33” on the 700 and 800 series. So if there is no slippage while cranking the leadcore or copper back in expect to crank 144 times to return 300’ and 240 times to return 500’ on a Tekota 500 or 600. It may not sound like a big deal but you’ll find using a reel with a return ratio 4.2:1 or less is going to be a workout.
I’d recommend a reel with a retrieve ratio of 6:1 or more with a reliable drag. Daiwa is now making a nice mid-range line counter with a reliable drag system. The Sealine SG-3B has enough capacity, (480 yards of 20#, 0.018” Dia) to hold 300’ of 27# leadcore, (0.024” Dia.) and 400 yards of 50# super braid, (0.015” Dia.) and 30’ of 20 fluorocarbon leader. The SG-3B has a retrieve ratio of 6.1:1 with 42.9” of line retrieved per crank. So a length of 300’ will require 84 cranks and retrieving 500’ will require 139 cranks.
A reel that retrieves 42.9” of line per crank will require 42% less reel cranks than a reel that retrieves 25” of line per crank.
Save some money on a reel and save your arms and hands from over work while doing something that’s supposed to fun and enjoyable.
- Leadcore lines are L O N G. Much longer, and possess much more slack than while trolling than your riggers and/or divers. When your divers get hit, you know about it right away. The line is tight (unless you're using mono...which is another topic) and the reel/drag's job is to help provide a smooth point for that fish to pull against. The same goes for riggers, lines are pretty tight, and there isn't much slack when a fish strikes. That, and there is typically less line between the bait and the rod tip.
With lead core and long lines, the story is a little different. It's my belief that lead core and copper lines have more slack and droop in the lines (rod tip to board, board to bait) When fish get hooked, they have to do some line pulling (and quite a bit of line) before you know about it, and before your reel or reel drag gets engaged.
For that reason, I say that IF you are going to go cheap on reels, leadcore is the place to do it. It's the safest place. That said, I run convectors and the coldwaters on mine, only because I've upgraded over the years. If you're just getting started, go cheap. My opinion
I think the point was made, you may or may not need to. I don't know the capacity of those reels. I just bought two 30 series Okuma Convectors mentioned, and it is all based on what lines you are using. My new convectors, running 50# braid backing, if I remember I had the option of a full spool of lead, when using the thinner suffix advanced (thinner than others). Still plenty of braid, and short leader. Point is, you need all the info, then use a calculator to get some close estimates for starting out.
Google it, and you'll most likely find other options. First one to pop up when I did it was this: http://www.accuratefishing.com/support/linecal.php
You need the brand of lead core to get the right diameter. The backing, and how much, balanced with line past the lead. Any inserted mono for connecting boards, if you are doing that as well. Put the factors in, using the advice posted.... and you'll start to see what comes together to end up just shy of filling a spool.
I am all knew at it... but gather the info... and go from there. I'm enjoying figuring it out, and hoping not to be "too" wrong.
I also currently carry several 2's,3's and every color through 12.If I knew then what I do now I would have gone with the set up above.
If you want to get two setups as cheap as possible though, split a full core of lead into a 3 color and a 7 color. It's the most economical option, covers two different parts of the water column and by playing with snap weights\ clipping to the lead you should be able to cover almost all your bases. Your just delaying the inevitable though, if you get into this, you'll have all sorts of different setups, as Eyechaser mentioned.