Dispy Diver set-up
I started 3 years ago with 4 dipsys and 2 flat lines. Back 2 dipsys on 1 setting front 2 on 3 setting. Then run 2 flat lines with just spoons on boards. Caught plenty of fish doing this. I usually ran atleast 1 8in flasher on one of the dipsys on the 1 setting deeper 40ft down then all the rest with spoons with the board lines set with steely spoons. I would recommend using slide divers or what I did was use the modified s-binder setup. This allows u to run longer leads on the dipsys which put more fish in my boat. I have started to run mags out deep but don’t care for them they put ALOT of tension on the line. I’ve since put on riggers and run a lot of leadcore. My most productive rods are 3 color lead, spoons on a modified s-Biner dipsy, and flat line spoons.
You can with pretty much ease run 4 dipsey rods and have them be your most efficient rods. Not only for catching fish but ease of reset. Coho setup early season run a 9 or 10 foot rod on the forward dipsey. 3 or 3 1/2 set with a coho rig out 20-50 feet. Then behind that with an 8 foot dipsey rod run dipsey at a setting btw 1 and 2. Run those back 25-60 feet. These rigs and lengths change as the season goes on and fosh slide slightly deeper. 8 foot dipsey i'll run an 8" flasher and larger fly(king setup). And run the coho rig or standard spoon 40-80 feet back or further on the 10 foot dipsey. If you set the dipsey divers accordingly 3-3 1/2 set on the outside and 1-2 on the inside tangles will be a minimum. It is super difficult to run 2 eight inch flasher setups on one side of the boat. You are missing out on fish if you dont run 4 dipseys. Of course if you are constantly tangling one per side is better but I have very few issues. Run 4 at least thru the first part of june but sometimes till the end of june
Smeylink,,,I want to thank you for taking the time and effort on your recent post to dipsy divers ... I am also very new and unschooled at GL fishing .. people like you help guide new comers like me .. and it isnt about me catching fish anymore ,, its about my daughter and grandsons having the experience ... again , thanks
I'm just starting as well here is what I have learned so far:
I'm on a 19'9" boat but my uncle and dad ran 16' boat on LK MI for Salmon years ago. We both need to pick our days on the water.
Lets assume you would run 2 and max 3 on your boat (I recommend always going out with someone else if you can, just makes life easier when the bite is on and safer) so 6-9 max rods if WI side. With downriggers 8 rods is very doable but ease up to it. 2 downriggers, 2 Dipsy, 2 planners at first or with 2 guys and 4 planners to run a full spread. Fish targeting might tweak this some but having the ability to run 6 lines will really help dial in what they want better.
Spring no real need for downriggers and if you want Coho, Browns and Rainbows you could skip downriggers. Friends boat doesn't have downriggers but mid June he is done fishing and we take my boat out.
Downriggers. Try to find two used ones if you can and mount as these sometimes only call fish in but kings hitting and only fighting a flasher fly is lots of fun reeling in mix bag with these. About 1/2 of my fish have been on downriggers and they are outnumbered by other rods. I wasn't going to go this route but was talked into it. I really like the Penn Fantom, not sold by Penn anymore but another company makes them and all the parts are easy to purchase. I'm running 10# weights and no problem reeling in. I have 4 ft booms and angle so they are in line with my transom so I can turn w/o any concerns of where the line is WRO the prop.
Dipsy: Start with 1 / side. I lean towards Slide Divers to avoid any issues with tripping a dipsy when a king takes it and goes for a run. I run reg dipsy and slides, I find the slides more versatile and I would get the Lite Bite version. That way any fish hits you don't need to trip the dipsy just reel in the fish. Slide Divers lite bites are great for Browns/Coho and can get deep (they have a Mag Kit as well). They side plane with longer leads for spooky browns and steel head work great too when targeting the upper 30 ft
Planner boards: Pick up the Church Walleye boards and make or buy Stainless Steel rear pins. When running Braid for backing just twist the line forming a circle (Just like hooking up a downrigger clip) and put the circle into the rear pin. Now the only thing pulling on the front release is the boards force not line slipping. I wrap once on the front release and never had any problem on my friends boat and taking a board off is faster then off shore boards with this rear pin and they pull to the side better. Blood run has some ways to modify these boards even more. I don't have church boards but looking to pick some up after seeing these in action for Coho/Browns. Started walleye fishing and this isn't a issue but salmon can charge the boat and time to unhook is more critical at times.
Weighted line: I have 3,5,7,10 color lead core x 2 so 8 reels/rods. Use the Willis knot and I would only run the reg 27# line as you can thread PP40 and I put two knots to hold braid vs 1 knot for mono. You could easily run 1,3 color lead and add snap on weights to get you more depth and avoid this many set-ups. Also inline sinkers work great for Brown and Coho set-ups to target the top 20-30 FOW. The lead core in 1-3 colors should be enough to get the snake action and don't put any weight after the lead core and limit your topshot to 20 or so ft after it to keep that action onto your bait like spoons for example.
Line in general: Try to have 1000 ft on your reels for the chance King wants to go to the opposite shore with your bait. GLANGER dot Com has a really really good excel spreadsheet to calculate reel capacity. I picked up a cheap Berkley line counter and used a rubber band to keep the engagement locked to thread up 20+ reels w/o having to redo. I use Powerpro 40# line and use it for Dipsy rods and Backer for lead core and this stuff will last many many many seasons for most and if you want swap between reels when it starts to wear and you double that life and becomes much cheaper then mono over time. I only use Mono for Downrigger rods and walleye gear I use for Browns.. Just put a top shot of FL for browns and you can switch quickly between targeted fish as well. I purchased a bulk spool of PP40 and reeled up with my friend. Run line in water when spooling up braid to pack it tight on the reel. I took nuts, fender washers, spring for tension with a all thread rod and a neighbors cat litter plastic bin with a hole near the top. Filled with water it won't tip over and keeps the line wet and top of the spool is above the top of the tote for packing reels. Extra thread rod on the two sides I use for other lines such as Mono and Leader material to finish them off when spooling line. Cost me only a few bucks to set up and just make sure the line is coming off the correct way.
What to run...
Brown Trout: Stick Baits on walleye type gear is all you need with planner boards. Run a dipsy out wide or leadcore off the side as well might pick a few up on these or mix bax. Milwaukee Harbor in March/April is great time.
Coho Bite: Watch reports when they start heading towards your harbor(s), but 6" red/orange dodgers with peanut flies (flies are the only color changes you need to put some in the box. I run 18" behind the 6" dodger, but 12-18" from top of loop to back of hook is the range. Keep them all the same length and use speed to alter how they run. Longer is slower action at a given speed. After the huge rush of coho limits I switch some to spoons as the season get moving and pick up mix bag on these planner board set-ups.
King bite: Get up early so lines are wet before first sunrise... Downriggers and dipsy with 8" flasher and howie style flies. and put some spoons on planner boards with some weight (they will get you mix bag and often Coho will hit) On 4" flies I tie a single hook 4/0 offset circle hook then a size 1 treble hook trailer. Called Tournament tying and if you hook fish with the single hook in the jaw bone they aren't coming off. Last season on a reg tied fly I lost head shaking and ended up he tossed the hook but the treble hooked the fish on the side (found that out when we netted him on the side of the boat). Instead of pulling harder we cleared that side and turned to the fish and boated it on the side. Shocked us how it was hooked and friend told me it happened to him before but they pulled harder and lost the fish and now we know what it might have happened. Was a 20# fish and kicker was it was the only one we picked up that day but plenty of food for all 3 of us which is why I like salmon fishing.
Feel free to message me if any questions as I know the pain of buying things you don't use and I have researched a bunch prior to setting my rig up as well. Others will have great info as well. Tight lines and let us know how you did and pay it forward.
Sorry Just saw the OP was from years ago... Sorry but hopefully others will like this info.
Don't see why not. Definatly could use mono with the 2 or16 clips. Not sure about traditional s biner only reason being where the loop is if the mono would be to big. The diver tension could be set lighter to compensate for any stretch
Advantages for S-Biner rig:
1- You can remove it from your line so you don't have heavy divers bouncing around on your rods when you are traveling.
2-With the divers off these rods can double as down rigger rods.
3-If you already have Dipsys you don't have to buy any slide divers.
4- Removes from line when fighting fish so you don't have it in the way.