Winterizing the Cabin
My friend also tried winterizing his cabin. I almost froze once, too, lol! Some states just get colder by the year, global warming is surely a fake... There are things to bag that keep you warm there, though, you can check them out: https://under-the-open-sky.com/best-socks-for-hunting/ Otherwise, you need better heating, of course.
what do you use for heat ? Electricity , gas , propane ?
We use propane and last year was about 650 for the year , heating and stove . We keep it at 55 to 60 . A bit warm , but then it warms up faster . Plus the first year it was lower , and a few times "chunky" water came out . No actual breaks , so the next year I turned it up a bit .
Have you ever thought of solar ? Northern tool used to have solar panels that heated up and then blew it in you house . Had a thermostat and a solar powered fan to blow it in when temp dropped . I can't remember the price , 2 or 3 grand . But if it takes you up to 70 - 80 during the day and you have a small fan on a timer to move it around , it should last most of the day before you have to pay for heat .
My neighbor is full time and has geothermal and loves it .
I've sold Zoeller for years, among many other brands of effluent pumps. It is not significantly better than many other brands in the market.
The link below lists in the top 10 mostly retail pumps, which are generally lower in quality than professional grade (Zoeller is not normally a retail pump). Wayne is no 1? Give me a break....it's a cheap Chinese import available from Grainger.
The article says the M53 is 3hp....not true. It is 1/3hp....very different than 3hp. a 3hp pump could pump 100gpm with 15' of lift with a normal sump impeller. The article was FILLED with typos, as if it were written by those not speaking English as their primary language.
Sump pumps are not tested to how well they handle being frozen solid, then operating after thawing. That is not normal for their environment. The Zoeller may be a good choice, but there are plenty others. All sump pumps have plastic impellers, as does the Zoeller...and none are designed to freeze hard and thaw without damage.
My cabin is more for new build methods. On my cabin which is 12 years old I had my plumber during the build set cabin up for quick drain. When leaving cabin,
Turn furnace down to 56, flip fuse for water pump and electric water heater off. Open all faucets and flush all toilets until empty. Plunge water out of toilet traps and put rv antifreeze in all traps. Open drain valve above water heater and both valves after pressure tank in basement. These are at lowest spot. They catch in 5 gallon buckets remaining water in angled pipes around house. Takes about 5 to 7 minutes to stop draining. I do not empty the water heater tank. This sits in basment next to floor drain. Plumber stated i would without doubt start the water heater before i refilled it and ruin it long before this place would freeze and maybe lose the heater to freeze. I turn thermostat on gas fireplace to 50 degrees. Installed in fireplace a device called the cabin friend that can turn gas fireplace on by battery power. If power would go out for extended time and dropped to 50 degrees in cabin the device would turn on fireplace. Does not run fans but easily heats all the main floor. 12 years no problem. We heat and electric cabin in northern wi in dead of winter for less than 100 per month.
Lakeshiner , your house/cabin sounds just like mine . Monolithic slab that has pex type heat coils run from a boiler throughout it . Summer fills and woodburner , 2x6 walls , home faces south with enough glass to catch whatever is available in winter to also warm the tile floors . Toasty !!