Plumbing

1/18/16 @ 10:03 AM
ORIGINAL POST
mooselegs
mooselegs
USER since 5/27/03
Had exact same problem with my WELL MATE pressure tank. Talked with the well driller (we ended up having to drill a new well due to other issues) about buying a new bladder kit. He told me changing it out was a bigger problem then you might realize. Ended up putting in a new tank....the well guys did it.
Post Your Comment
Displaying 1 to 10 of 41 Posts
5/31/17 @ 11:03 AM
dandigger
dandigger
USER since 4/30/08

not sure why i didn't think of using tape. i'll kick myself in the nards if it's that easy. probably was getting so frustrated after dealing with the new drain assembly also leaking. and the wife had to say this bathroom reno was going to be easy!!! lmao

Post Your Comment
5/31/17 @ 10:20 AM
river_chaser
river_chaser
USER since 10/3/12

couple other things to try. Behind the wall, if you have access, the PVC wast pipe might be brace or clamped. Loosen that and you might have more flexibility where you tighten the joint. 

Otherwise try some sealant in the leaky joint. Did you use teflon tape? that should work. Try more wraps of the tape.  Otherwise try another sealant.

Post Your Comment
5/31/17 @ 10:18 AM
Pool8
Pool8
USER since 1/27/17

Loosen all fittings tighten up the one that is leaking then the one going through the wall then the one at the sink last see if that dosent let them roll better into place theres no give on the seal thats leaking as it is formed on the pipe.

Post Your Comment
5/31/17 @ 9:32 AM
dandigger
dandigger
USER since 4/30/08

Looking for some help with a slight drip/leak coming from the bathroom drain. replaced the vanity this weekend and it appears the drain is about 1/8" off from the original. there's a slight drip coming from where the waste arm/stub out meets the J bend.

not my pic but this is where the drip is coming from.

any recommendations to fix this?? the vanity is level but the J-bend pipe is cockeyed and wont sit flush into the slip nut. I've tried multiple drain assemblies and took this thing about far too many times lol

Post Your Comment
2/8/17 @ 8:11 PM
amaranthlost
amaranthlost
USER since 5/31/10

I've never used anything but the wax ring and never had an issue.

Post Your Comment
2/8/17 @ 7:33 PM
Plmlk
Plmlk
MEMBER since 12/18/07

I'm all about the wax one Dave.  I really dislike sanitary plumbing and don't want to tinker with it anymore than I have to.   I'd go with the wax ring - I've not had one leak yet.


Post Your Comment
2/8/17 @ 12:25 PM
Skunky
Skunky
USER since 3/15/14

I used the waxless when I redid bath this past fall. Pretty easy to use. No issues. 

Post Your Comment
2/8/17 @ 11:31 AM
Pool8
Pool8
USER since 1/27/17

Wax is fine if the flange is below the finished floor you'll need 2 one plain to go on the flange one with the plastic shoot to stack on the first one. The one thing with wax is you get one shot you can't remove the toilet and reset it.

Post Your Comment
10/19/16 @ 7:27 PM
poptop
poptop
USER since 10/1/03

Plumbers price was reasonable. But $60.00  to turn a valve 1/4 turn and back is ridiculous.

Post Your Comment
10/16/16 @ 1:00 PM
Plmlk
Plmlk
MEMBER since 12/18/07

Really a very reasonable price BA.  You'd have to search a bit to find a plumber who would do it cash on the side for that price.

Many commercial shops have a 4 hour minimum at $110 to $130 per hour. 

The trades are looking for younger guys.  Most are hurting for skilled tradesmen.  There is a decent living to be made.  Journeyman plumbers, HVAC, and Master Electricians are making around $38 per hour on the check, and another $15 per hour in benefits. 



Post Your Comment
Displaying 1 to 10 of 41 Posts