Deep Cycle Marine Batteries

2/22/16 @ 9:19 AM
ORIGINAL POST
Nivek
Nivek
USER since 2/10/15
Hi, I plan to purchase two Deep Cycle Marine Batteries for the Minn Kota this spring. Any suggestions to the best batteries out there? Thanks much for any info! Kevin
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Displaying 1 to 10 of 25 Posts
4/13/16 @ 10:06 AM
CNickel65
CNickel65
USER since 5/7/08
Thanks B Fish! I'm defiantly going to wire up my boat like this. $200 is pretty cheap insurance, all things considered!

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4/12/16 @ 7:04 PM
B Fish
B Fish
USER since 6/26/10
CNickle65

To specifically answer your question. There are actually 2 circuits to be concerned with, and YES ever circuit should either be fused or have a breaker. You want the breaker to trip to shut things down and avoid a fire. Without a breaker or fuse if something fails, the wires will get hot and burn.

The one circuit is for the DC alternator and it comes from Minn Kota with the appropriate fuses. You can extend the cables. I mounted my DC Alternator under my console and the cables to the TM batteries were long enough to get to them. However the cable to the starting battery needed to be extended and I believe I had to use 10 gage per the instructions. Obviously I soldered all the connections and covered them with heat shrink.

The other circuit is your trolling motor circuit and YES it should have a breaker or fuse. The largest TMs draw more than 55 amps but less than 60, so that is why the guys use the 60 amp waterproof resettable breaker. (Amazon is the cheapest)

You should also make sure you kill the power to your TM when you are charging for any period of time. Most TMs have a circuit board in them and a voltage spike can take out the circuit board. Voltage spikes can happen for lots of reasons. I wired my TM in Series and mounted a shutoff switch under the console. The shutoff is on the connection between the + & - of the circuit. You can also unplug your TM but that will eventually wear out the plug.

I also have a master shutoff on my starting battery as this also kills the trim on the big motor. I saw a guy have a trim switch fail and the pump on the motor kept running with the motor all the way up, good thing the guy caught it and disconnected the battery or he would have burned up his rig.

So when I am done fishing I turn off both master switches and the power on my rig is 100% dead. Sure helps a guys sleep and I would never own a rig without them. You can also get the switches off Amazon for about $30 each. Smile

So to properly wire a boat with the correct size marine wire, terminals, non-plumbing grade solder, fuses, and shutoff switches will probably cost $200 but when you look at the cost of the contents of a boat or even having a structure fire,,,,,that is cheap IMO.

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4/12/16 @ 1:54 PM
wallybeav
wallybeav
USER since 11/6/08
I Love my Sears DieHards Group 29 Deep Cycle and Marine Starting battery. I bought my last 2 batteries in August 2007. Still have receipt. 8 years out of them. Just exchanged them for 2 new ones last week. Hope I get 8 more years from them. Always keep them on Automatic charger 10 amp/12V when boat out of water. Even in Winter.

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4/12/16 @ 9:13 AM
CNickel65
CNickel65
USER since 5/7/08
For the guys that have installed the DC Alternator Charger is it necessary to install a circuit breaker in the system? I will need to buy the extension cable since my trolling motor battery is in the bow. I see online that many people also buy the MinnKota 60A waterproof circuit breaker along with the alternator charger so I'm thinking it would be a good idea to install this with the system but I'm not totally sure if it's necessary???

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4/12/16 @ 7:12 AM
MuskyManiac5
MuskyManiac5
USER since 4/20/07
Due to moving last year, my boat was not used for over 18 months and was in storage with no available electricity. I have the original Interstate battery as the starting battery, it is 9 years old this year. I expected it to be dead when I finally brought the boat to it's new home, so I brought jumper cables with so I could raise and lower the motor to transport it. To my surprise the power trim worked and the battery didn't even seam to be weak! I haven't tried the AGM trolling motor battery yet, but hope to start getting the boat ready this weekend. I probably should change out the starting battery just to be safe, it will be a new Interstate though! Smile

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4/12/16 @ 5:01 AM
B Fish
B Fish
USER since 6/26/10
I also installed a Minn Kota DC alternator. It is amazing as now the big motor charges my TM batteries after the starting battery is full. This has totally eliminated any possibility of my TM batteries being low. When I purchase my boat I put in 31 series but I will save some money and weight with my next set and drop down to 27s as now the DC alternator will keep them topped off. Interstate batteries are a good value. Make sure you get a battery that is meant for a TM.

I also agree, wire size is SO important. Don't assume what you need. Look it up on a chart (Amp Draw & Length of run) My Minn Kota 80 pound Terrova draws 56 amps on full (which we do use when muskie fishing into the wind). I also installed a master shutoff switch under my console on my TM circuit which I would recommend. The chart told me 4 gage. You also want to use Marine grade wire. I also upgraded my plug to a Battery Tender Plug which is rated for 100 amps. (I was smoking the factory ones that came with the boat)I also soldered all the connections. The circuit is only as good as the weakest link.

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4/11/16 @ 12:45 PM
Tim Zwieg
Zwiegs
USER since 1/10/12
I have had good luck with Interstate. Get the biggest batteries you can squeeze into you compartments whether that is a series 27, 29, or 31

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3/18/16 @ 8:01 AM
fishen_soon
fishen_soon
MEMBER since 6/24/14
Ulbian I am with you, I have never run my batteries down. I think the set-up and the way you run the motor has a lot to do with it. My last boat was a 17' SeaNymph. When I was going to put a bow motor on it a buddy of mine said "he never heard someone complain about having too much power or battery juice". So I got the biggest (output) tolling motor (80lb at the time) and the biggest group 31's I could find. I would slip the Mississippi all day in the spring without even putting a dent in those batteries. Now I have a 36V 112 lb unit. The motors have pulse modulation power (might not be the technical term) that reduces battery consumption if you keep the power under 70% or so. If you have a big enough motor, you only need to run it at 30-40%. The guys that like to put the peddle down a lot, use batteries like you would use gas. Also, I have always used large wires to connect to batteries. Last boat I used 4ga welding power cable.

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3/16/16 @ 3:15 PM
Ulbian
Ulbian
USER since 9/24/03
Group 29's on an 80lb Terrova and I've never had an issue running them down. In my youthful days I'd do a 24 hour muskie fishing marathon a couple of times a year. By the end of that 24 hour stretch I'd still have a bit of juice left.

The age of your trolling motor plays a huge role in battery life as well. Newer motors are going to be more efficient. That 80lb Terrova doesn't use juice the way a 65lb PD did on the same boat.

I've installed a Minn-Kota DC Alternator and that thing is very nice to have. It charges my trolling motor batteries off of my gas outboard. Last year (first full year with that thing on board) I only plugged my regular on board charger in maybe 3 or 4 times. It's not a necessity but it's a neat toy to have. Trolling motor batteries get run down? No problem...just make a run or two across a lake and they are charged up enough to get you through the rest of the day.

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3/16/16 @ 1:50 PM
drummer boy
drummer boy
USER since 3/14/08
Musky do you have a 12 or 24 volt system?I have never run out of power with my 24 volt,but then I have a cable systems they do use less juise.I could be wrong but the last time I looked the 31 dual purpuse did not have any more power than a smaller deepcycle.Or maybe they were short on the cold cranking, I think I looked at a dual to replace my starting batterie

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Displaying 1 to 10 of 25 Posts