12 volt to 24 volt upgrade
I can't remember who I ordered my wire from but I can find out if you like. They were the cheapest and shipped promptly. Message me if you would like more info or have any questions
A big bonus of having the removable plate is that I wired a plug onto my Terrova and also on the old PD that is compatible with the set ups that four or five buddies have. The PD is essentially a community backup motor that goes along with anyone in the group when they go on trips. One guy had issues with his Terrova a day before he was set to leave to fish a PMTT event so we just pulled my Terrova off my boat and slapped it on his in a matter of seconds. I wasn't using on those days anyway.
First I always mount my TMs on a removable mounting plate, just in case you need to take it off.
Terrova's draw 56 amps at full power. Most connectors are not rated for 56 amps and will get warm and the connection can then get loose. The only connector rated for this that I have found is a connector from Motor Tender which is rated for 100 amps, you can get it off Amazon for $50. The other choice is to eliminate the connector and hard wire the TM but then you can not remove the TM very easily.
6 gage wire will handle 60 amps up to 15 ft long, if your wire run is longer than 15 ft you should run 4 gage. Heavier wire will not hurt anything, but lighter wire will. Also make sure you get a wire that is rated for Marine use. (Gas. Oil, Water, UV)
Because a Terrova draws 56 amps you need a breaker larger than that, go with a 60 amp Minn Kota resettable, off Amazon again for $25.
One more thing. Because a Terrova has a circuit board in it you should always either disconnect or shut off the power to the TM when you are charging or a voltage spike could fry your circuit board in the TM. You can unplug the connectors but that wears them out. A better option is to put a switch in-between the jump of the + & - terminals. Then all you need to do is turn off the switch when you are done and the power to the TM is off. You can get an On/Off switch from Blue Seas which is rated for Marine use and 100 amps off of Amazon for $30. But depending where you put the switch, this may make your wire run longer which is why I mentioned 4 gage.
Make sure you solder all the connections with electrical grade solder, not plumbing solder that has flux in it or it will cause corrosion. You also should put heat shrink on the solder joints.
I have never had my TM deploy accidentally but have heard they can if you do not retract them all the way. I have a small rope with a snap on it that I hook to the TM when I am running. When I am in heavy waves or on the road I hook up a Ram mount to lock it in. I Muskie fish so I have the TM shaft mounted on the Starboard side of the boat so I can deploy and retract it with my right hand and hold my rod with my left. This also keeps the port side open at the dock.
I have the hand held control but never use it, as then I am not able to cast. I have my TM linked to my Humminbird 959 and I run the TM through my locator if I need advanced functions.
Batteries: Make sure you get batteries that are made for trolling motors, not starting. I have two 31 series wet cell batteries. It is easy to install the batteries in my boat so there is no advantage to the AGM style which are made more to be turned on there side. I have an on-board charger. I leave the batteries in the boat year round but plug in the charger a few times in the winter. You could leave an on-board charger plugged in all the time, but then you have a fire hazard if the charger malfunctions. Leaving them in the boat is better than putting them in a warmer environment like a basement. In a cold environment the die-electrode (acid) slows down and doesn't react with the lead plates so the batteries last longer. The important thing is to charge your batteries every time you use them.
The wire and connectors will probably cost $150 dollars the Ram mount will probably be another $50. The mounting plate will be $40. I also carry a spare prop as I have had them break on rocks.
I know that if you follow the steps I have sighted you will not have any problems.
If you can't find the items, PM me and I will send you the links.
Have a good day.
Before long you'll get very used to using the remote and will rarely use the foot pedal. Both are nice to have. I leave the foot pedal connected but use the hand remote 90%-95% only using the foot pedal for quick course corrections.