My goal for this year
Get rid of the vanes. They can work but are not meant for that application, although you CAN slap on an elevated rest (several stick on's are available) and still use them. My recommendation is to get arrows that fit the bow first, equipped with feathers, likely 3-5" feathers. Sure there are others, 3", 4", four fletch, but just staert with 3-5" feathers of your choice of cut style. It would be a great idea to keep one of the arrows naked, and use it for tuning, to see how closely they are matched / compatible for your bow set up.
Visit a traditional site that will help you. A couple come to mind that have great guys with tons of experience and they won't bash you for asking any question if you are sincere. They have rules about that and are pretty strict about them.
tradgang.com is one of them. I am ChuckC on tradgang
That right there will take years off your learning curve.
I don't take as long a shot as some of my compound brethren talk of, but other than that, I really don't think you give up anything at all to a compound. The arrow is certainly capable of killing the deer out well past 100 yards, but I can't assure a responsible hit out there. Stick bows are hunting machines, if you do your part. That means practice.
I also hunt public only. I kill deer every year. I usually kill a doe early, for the freezer and then wait for the buck. I very often let them all walk and end up shooting no buck at all cause I am liking the hunt and don't want it to end. But not always.
Forty pounds is plenty, and that longer draw length counts for a lil added zip too. Are you using the arrows that you used for your compound or are they spined for the recurve ?
Yell if you have any more questions. It is a good goal and it just may change the way you hunt. ChuckC
One.. distance. Keep it short. Become a better hunter and position for a very close shot.
Two. . only take very good shots. Do not go for those marginal shots that you can get by with with a higher poundage compound. Do it right.
Three. . us a very sharp broadhead, on an arrow that is flying well at the range you expect to shoot. You want a stabilized arrow when it strikes the deer, not one still waving around due to archers paradox. I really recommend a good solid two blade cut on contact head. Not a mechanical head for this rig.
Four. . Have fun doing this.
Can you talk more about your equipment ( arrows being used, head weight, total arrow weight, draw length, etc ) Chuck