Just a forthought, before I even put that reel on a rod I test the reel by setting the drag to the weight of the reel and standing on a short ladder let it glide down to a couch pillow looking for smooth descent and no jerking of the drag.
Two types of line to consider with two styles of rods. Heavy mono and heavier rods like trolling gear get 3/4 line rating and Braided and fast action lighter rods get 1/3 rating. I mostly use the latter type of combo with shock leaders for Pike and Bass.
Braided lines and hard lines require a much lower drag setting along with a faster tip to keep from getting fish lips on the strike or hard hitting fish. Thats my experience and the Power Pro line insert warning. I also use bait runner reels from DAM to let the fish take line, crank the rod down to the water level and sweep up slowly for a hook set, this is also need for Circle and Octopus hooks. There is no stretch on that line so the rod and reel must do all the work to absorb shock and control the fish. Lots of guys just yank the lure or bait right out of the fishes mouth and never realize it. Good Salmon and Trout line for hard mouth fish.
With my heavier rods and large reels its Berkley MAXX and I give the fish a solid hook set or once again with circle hooks and Octopus hooks give the line a solid but slower sweep from the reeled up slack to an 11 o'clock position.
Like the other guys all said do not reel on fish, I pump the rod to bring the fish in or let them run at the 11 position and lower the rod to gain line pulling the fish back to me wit the drag slipping as it needs to, Browns are good at running at you so sometimes its a battle to reel the line like crazy to keep them tight. Final tip that puts the max pressure on the line is the same as flyfishing and centerpin reels....... use that index finger to feather the spool and increase drag cautiously. Fooling around with the drag during a fight is recipe for break offs. That has been my experience from a light line fisherman.